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The culture of his native Tunisia long informed the designer, and dresses are spun in a precise jacquard, the patterns borrowed from an image from the artists’ enclave of Sidi Bou Said, where Azzedine Alaïa had a home. Arab-Andalusian art and architecture was one of his constant sources of fascination, and resulted in the Vienne motif, a series of circles and triangles mimicking the intricate geometry of decorative walls and columns. It can be seen today in laser-cut perforations tracing a bag or in meticulously wrought knits where skin becomes the canvas for delicate openwork.

Revisiting a much-loved signature involves looking at it from a different angle. “We took what we think is interesting and important and reinterpreted it into new yarns and new details,” says Serrano.

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